Many thanks to Performance Verbier for providing the content for Snowjet’s guide to Verbier.
Verbier Overview
Verbier has built a reputation as an off-piste Mecca, delivering the kind of lift-accessed off-piste that other resorts can only dream of. But as well as offering all that stunning backcountry for the adrenaline addicts, Verbier offers over 400 km of pistes as part of the 4 Valleys network of linked resorts, and a real range of terrain that can keep everyone from absolute beginners to seasoned experts happy.
And, as well as delivering a great day on the hill, Verbier has even more to offer once you back to town. Sitting on a plateau at 1500m you’ll find stylish shops, luxury hotels and an impressive range of restaurants, as well as some absolutely legendary après ski.
Getting To Verbier
Sion Airport is perfectly placed for ski flights to Verbier, as well as the rest of the 4 Valleys, offering a massive time saving on transfers compared with other Swiss airports. A private transfer from Sion to Verbier can whisk you direct from the airport to resort in as little as 45 minutes. The public bus service, which runs from Sion town centre, takes a little longer of course but is a good economical option. Further details on transport options from Sion to Verbier
Before heading up the dizzying 14 hairpins to Verbier you’ll pass by Le Chable. Le Chable is lift-linked to Verbier and the Four Valleys but accommodation is a fraction of the cost here compared with its higher more illustrious neighbour. So it’s a good place to stay if you’re on a budget but still want access to world-class skiing.
What's on in Verbier
The big freeride event of the year, the Xtreme is the final round of the Freeride World Tour, and sees the very best skiers and riders in the world hurling themselves down the terrifying Bec de Rosses.
There's a rumour that a certain bar in Verbier consumes more of a certain lager than any other bar in Switzerland. To say thanks, Carlsberg sponsor The High Five – a brilliant combination of amateurs and legends (like Herman Maier and Chemmy Alcott) racing and partying.
Once a year the world's best speed skiers descend on Verbier, take the lift to the highest, steepest point (Mont Fort at 3,300m), then head straight down, hitting well over 100mph. Madness. And last year a ramp was built from the lift station to attempt the world record, but was never used due to lack of snow. But it's still up there ready for this season's attempt.
The Mountain
Skiing in Verbier
Verbier is really two areas – the popular, larger Medran side, which gives full access to the more demanding skiing, including the best and highest off-piste, and on the other side of town the quieter Savoleyres area (perfect if you’re looking for some cruisier runs, as well as a few steep sections to push yourself).
Being in a largely south-facing bowl, both areas of Verbier offer some stunning pistes bathed in sunshine, and with views across to the famous Grand Combin (4314m), it’s one long photo opportunity.
The lift company are currently investing heavily with the impressive Trois Roc development at the Medran lifts. Last season it proved a bit of a problem as there is now no parking at the main lifts, but busses and parking around resort have been greatly improved.
The other good news I the high speed chair lift starting next to Carrefour, replacing two old, slow and slightly scary chair lifts and whisking you up to Ruinettes as fast as the Medran bubbles.
From the Ruinettes you begin to see the reason Verbier got its reputation. Head up to the Funispace and high above the open, steep runs above and you’ll get your first glimpses of the Attelas couloirs, and finally Mont Gelé – a freeride mountain with one lift to it’s 3023m summit, and no pistes down.
You’re not completely on your own as you can follow one of the two itinerary routes down.
These controlled but un-pisted areas are the perfect introduction to off-piste, with the famous Chassoure-Tortin (universally abbreviated to just “Tortin”) turning into the biggest mogul field you’ve ever seen.
But don’t worry, as with all the big itinerary routes in Verbier, you can simply hop on one of the lifts that head straight over the top and watch everyone else struggle.
Take the pistes towards Verbier’s highest point at Mont Fort (3,300m), and you’ll pass through La Chaux, a brilliant area complete with a board-park and jumps for all ages and abilities.
This season the new modern restaurant will open at the bottom of La Chaux. Delayed from last year it’s a long over due replacement for the only cramped café there, and should be perfect for hot chocolate on cold days.
From La Chaux you can take the Jumbo towards Mont Fort, although be careful - it’s technically in the Nendaz ski area, not Verbier. So make sure you have your 4 Valleys pass.
Skiing in The 4 Valleys
Once you’ve negotiated the Itinerary runs (and there’s no shame in taking the lift down) you can leave Verbier and head towards Siviez, Nendaz and – if you’re looking for an epic trip – across to Veysonnaz and Thyon, where you can head to the l’ours race piste. Very steep, and if there are local races approaching, they water it to make it even icier. If that sounds a bit hardcore, then just cruise over to Thyon, much more civilised...
But if you don’t have the energy for the full 4 Valleys, Nendaz and Siviez provide a great playground and are traditionally quieter than Verbier itself.
You can also take the new space age Gentianes lifts that approach Mont Fort from the Nendaz side and plonk you at Col de Gentienes with stunning views of Mont Blanc.
Head up to Mont Fort (where there are new lifts installed for the 2010/11 season) and it gets even better, with views across to the Matterhorn, Rosablanche and mile upon mile of stunning glaciers, starting with the ominously titled "Grand Desert".
Oh, and more mogul fields on the descent. Negotiate them and you can stop at the famous old Cabane du Mont Fort and marvel at the Bec des Rosses on your way home. You’ll probably deserve a drink by then.
Off-piste
With its high lifts and backing onto such huge glaciated areas, Verbier is a freeride paradise. But not without it’s risks, so get a guide or an off-piste instructor before you go exploring. However, once you get going it really is the easiest accessed off-piste, with all sorts of secret couloirs, powder bowls and tree runs only a traverse away.
Naturally, it attracts people who all have the same plan, so get up early after a snow fall, and if the visablity is poor, just play in the trees below the Medran lifts – if you need a break the famous and incredibly positioned Chez Dany is a great spot for lunch and a beer.
But if you really want to sample the true Verbier, you have to get up high, and to get the really fresh stuff be prepared to hike. Or hop in a heli and get your self over to the Petit Combin.
Verbier Bars and Clubs
After all that skiing, Verbier has some brilliant après ski. In fact, before you even get off the hill it’s easy to get dragged into the 1936 bar, or get stuck at Chez Dany. But in town the best place to start is either the Pub Mont Fort (busy and staffed by ski bums for generations – check out the photos) or Farinet Après Ski – live music, dancing on tables and huge jugs of beer.
At the bottom of the Le Rouge lifts the Le Rouge restaurant has become one of the most popular après bars that you can actually ski to, and you’ll quickly discover the focus is much more on the house DJs and drinking Rosé on the 400 m2 sun soaked terrace than beer swilling...
The Fer à Cheval offers a more relaxed but still pretty busy drink straight off the slopes. Don’t ask why they’ve got all the American number plates, just enjoy the brilliant mix of nationalities, instructors and friendly staff.
For something more chilled out T-Bar is really popular for early evening drinks, although live music nights turn it into a mini-version of Farinet. And if Yellow Mike is in town, he’ll be here. Don’t miss him. Brilliant.
For a more sophisticated late night drink Coup d’Etat offers amazing (and powerful) cocktails in a very stylish setting – real James Bond stuff.
Then it’s time for clubs, with a three way choice between Coco (the new-comer: very swanky, very busy, very cool) The Farm (the legendary hang out of playboys and chalet staff alike) and Farinet’s Casbah (overflowing with resort staff, locals and holiday-makers looking for a massive party).
Verbier Aprés Ski
Not as overflowing with pricey boutiques as St Anton and Courchevel, but still plenty of places to pick up a Rolex or two. There are also some fairly impressive galleries, as well as some great shops for kids, with a pretty comprehensive toyshop as well as the milk bar – milkshake après ski for kids and adults.
If you want an alternative to skiing for a while then Verbier Summits offer expert dual parapente flights over resort and the sledge track to La Tzoumaz is a must. There’s also a massive sports centre with an indoor pool and ice rink as well as pony trekking in the spring.
And if you haven’t enjoyed enough adrenaline on the slopes the sports center is now also home to the snow karting track where you can race electric karts at up to 60kph around the icy circuit. A great new addition to resort – if a little scary.
Something for the Kids
For something a bit different you can take a dog sled from Ruinettes to La Chaux, noisy and great for kids who are too little to ski.
The beginners slope at Les Essertes is in the middle of town also doubles as a sledge track, perfect for little ones to mess about in the snow. And when it comes to skiing children born in 2003 or later get free lift passes, and all the schools in town cater for younger clients – there are week-long group lessons available for all ages, as well as one-off private lessons.
Depending on the child, even kids as young as 2 can be seen bombing around, although three to four is more normal. And if they fancy a change, the giant trampoline in town is always a winner.
And those Ice Karts at the Sport Center also have four speed settings, so even little ones can have a go without going too fast.
Verbier Links
Related Verbier articles:
Sion to Nendaz - The Shortest Ski Transfer in the Alps
Half Term Snow Conditions - What to Expect
Flying Start for Snowjet at Sion Airport
Other Snowjet.co.uk Resort Guides:
Crans Montana Resort Guide
Grimentz And Le Val Anniviers Resort Guide
Nendaz Resort Guide
Saas Fee Resort Guide
Verbier Resort Guide
Zermatt Resort Guide
Zinal Resort Guide
Verbier ski resort guide with Snowjet.co.uk