Montgenèvre Overview

Montgenèvre, which has been a popular destination for skiers since the 30s, is one of the oldest ski resorts in France. Today a vast lift network links the historic resort to its Italian neighbours, including Olympic venues Sestrière and Sauze d’Oulx. From snow-sure Montgenevre, the only French component of the otherwise all-Italian ski area known as the Milky Way, over 400km of piste can be accessed. Montgenèvre succeeds, where the majority of French resorts fail, in marrying convenience skiing and alpine charm. The village remains unspoilt, character-full and mercifully free of Brit tour operator giants. And your euros go a long way.

Getting To Montgenèvre

The distance between Chambéry airport and Montgenèvre is 155km, including a13km stretch underground through the Fréjus Tunnel.  Transfer times to/from resort are around 2 hours on a good day but be prepared for heavy traffic as you approach the Fréjus.  The tunnel is a major commercial thoroughfare between France and Italy and even though heavy goods vehicles are banned at weekends you may still have to queue on peak dates and at peak times as the flow of traffic through the tunnel is strictly regulated.

At present there is no public bus service from Chambéry airport to Montgenèvre so be sure to have your onward transport sorted out in advance.  You can choose to either hire a car or pre-book a transfer to resort.  Booking a transfer can take the stress out of planning your journey to and from the airport and although car hire might seem like a cheaper option, don’t forget to factor in all the nasty hidden extras, including snow tyres and chains, a ski rack, fuel and tolls (The cost of a return trip through the Fréjus is around 40€).  If you do decide to drive to the airport on your return, take local advice with regard to traffic and weather conditions on your day of departure to minimise the chances of missing your flight.

The volume of traffic in Montgenèvre itself has been cut dramatically since 2006 when the completion of a tunnel made it possible to divert through-traffic away from the centre.   The lack of cars makes strolling around the town’s tumbledown stone houses and poking around the weekly market a pleasurable and laidback experience.   The compact resort is easily navigable on foot and much of the accommodation has ski-in ski-out access so you really won’t need a car during your stay unless you fancy a day trip to a resort outside the Milky Way. 

The Mountain

The Milky Way offers skiers over 400km of piste, a massive web which stretches from Montgenève in the west to Italian ski giant Sauze d’Oulx in the east.  Between the two lie a handful of other Italian resorts, including Olympic venues Clavière and Sestrière.  For the 2006 winter games numerous snow canons were introduced to ensure good coverage on the pistes linking the various resorts, so in a day you can really cover some ground.  Most will find the terrain in the Milky Way extensive and varied enough for a week’s skiing, but if you do fancy a change of scene buy an extension to your lift pass to cover a day’s skiing in one of the many French resorts within driving distance of Montgenèvre.  Or access one of the nearby Italian peeks over 3000m by helicopter!

If you’re only just finding your feet on the snow Montgenèvre’s own ski area is ideal.  There are gentle, wide beginners’ runs just above the village which, at 1860m of altitude, is sufficiently high that the snow stays in good condition throughout the ski season.  Snow-sure and with an enviable sunshine record - Montgenèvre is a great place to learn.   The area is good for intermediates too, with a good variety of blue and red pistes, descending from above the treeline, through the forest to town.   Excluding the black mogul runs either side of the Rocher Rouge chair, advanced skiers won’t find the local terrain terribly challenging and will probably want to venture further a field.  The twin blacks and gentler blues to Clavière are quieter than the alternative links into The Milky Way on the other side of the valley.

Bars & Clubs in Alpe d’Huez

Montgenèvre is not known for its nightlife but there is a reasonable selection of restaurants and bars.  People rave about the pizza’s served at Le Capitaine while Ca del Sol is the best place to sample the local dishes (not for vegans or the lactose intolerant).   Le Graal Café is a popular venue for lunch, serving simple but hearty fare and in the evening it transforms itself from restaurant to bar drawing a lively crowd.  You can occasionally catch live bands at the Graal as well as at Rois Mages.  Le Blue Night is the late night venue – think school disco rather than super club.

Montgenèvre Après Ski

There are plenty of snow-related non-skiing activities to sample, including snowmobiling, snowshoeing and paragliding.  And a beautiful natural lake, which is floodlight by night, lends itself to ice skating.  If you fancy doing something unrelated to either snow or ice, a poke around the weekly market, where friendly locals sell regional produce, is a pleasant way to pass a morning.  A day trip to the nearby fortified town of Briançon is also recommended, if you want to take a break from the slopes.

Something for the Kids

The selection of green and blue runs make Montgenèvre the perfect place for kids to find their feet on the slopes and the local children’s ski school, Le Jardin d'Enfants Club Piou Piou, is superb.  The club caters for children aged 3-5 and combines basic ski lessons, in a secure and stimulating snow garden, with indoor activities.  For more fun on the snow there’s an area set aside for tobogganing where your kids can slide in safety.

Montgenèvre Accommodation Links