Val d'Isère Overview
Val d’Isère vies with Meribel as the preferred resort of British skiers. And it is easy to see the attraction. Val and Tignes are the two resorts which make up the Espace Killy, a vast ski area with an excellent snow record and served by one of the most modern lift networks in Europe. The resort itself is known for its luxury accommodation, gourmet restaurants and superb nightlife. Val d’Isère appears to have it all. But it does come at a price. It’s up there with the most expensive resorts in the French Alps.
Getting To Val d’Isère
Val d’Isère is located at the extreme end of the Haute Tarentaise valley, 144km from Chambery, the nearest airport by some distance. Since Saturday is changeover day for almost everybody, and given that all the traffic from the whole of the Tarentaise region funnels into the N90 at Moutières, be prepared for the journey to and from the airport to be slow going. On departure leave plenty of time to make your flight, especially if it has been snowing. It’s a good idea to check the weather forecast before you leave and to figure out how to use those snowchains if it looks like you could be needing them. To take the stress out of getting to the airport, think about pre-booking a transfer. If you do choose to hire a car, check whether your accommodation has guest parking as your other parking options are costly indoor or outdoor and out-of-town.
You might wonder what all the fuss is about when you drive through purpose-built satellite, La Daille, but you’ll need to keep driving for another few minutes before you reach Val d’Isère proper or Val Village, still further up the road lies Le Fornet. La Daille is great for ski-to-the-door convenience and its concrete blocks make for cheap if not cheerful places to stay. In contrast, recent construction in le Fornet has been in keeping with its rural farm community roots and it’s now a pleasant place to stay. If you fancy a night on the town it is a long cold walk back to either le Fornet or La Daille from Val Village. Because the Village is where the nightlife’s at. It’s also where all the restaurants and shops are located. The three areas are linked by an incredibly efficient shuttle bus service during the day and all are exceptionally well-connected lift-wise. In fact, there are no fewer than 8 lift departure points along the valley which means you’ll rarely have to queue in the morning.
The Mountain
The ultramodern lift system means that you can leave Le Fornet, right on the edge of the Espace Killy and be in Tignes before lunchtime. Intermediate skiers will really be able to make the most of the efficient links and great snow conditions to cover some serious distance on some of the 300km of pistes. However, Val d’Isère has some of the finest skiing in the area, both on and off the piste, so take the time to explore what’s on your doorstep before heading further a field.
It is generally recognised that the piste grades are a little skewed in Val d’Isère. For green think blue. For blue – red. For red – Black. And black runs should really be left to the experts. Like the steep and often icy Olympic piste La Face, that plunges some 1000m vertical off the top of the Bellevarde. Other blacks in Val have been re-categorised as ‘Naturide’ runs, meaning that they are patrolled and secured from avalanche risk but are not bashed. Pistes A, M and S off the Solaise are examples. They’ll be bumpy if it hasn’t snowed for a little while, but after a fresh dump you can hone your off-piste skills in complete security. If it’s off-piste you’re after, there are some excellent routes down through the trees on the Fornet side.
Although Val d’Isère doesn’t have much of a reputation as a beginners resort, there is a fair selection of ‘greens’ to choose from. Complete novices won’t even need to buy a pass until they have found their feet on the village nursery slopes. Once you’ve built up your confidence, head up Madeleine, Datcha or Glacier to try out your newly acquired skills on some of the gentler slopes in resort. Above the Bellevarde some more nice beginner terrain can be accessed from either the Borsat Express or Grand Pre chairs. Stay high for the best snow and to avoid the crowds and the steeper gradients. Catch a lift back to town when you’re legs can’t take anymore.
Bars & Clubs in Val d’Isère
There’s a cosmopolitan mix of drinking establishments in Val d’Isère. Brits can be found guzzling pints at the Pacific Bar, The Morris Pub or The Saloon Bar. All three have good deals at happy hour and are usually buzzing at après ski. The Morris and The Saloon are good venues for live music. If you want to mingle with the young and beautiful Swedish people in Val, try lively Scandi favourite Le Petit Danois. And for something more authentically French, try XV, a popular choice with the locals. Or splash out at swanky hotel bar Le Blizzard, where the sofas are comfy and the cocktails divine. If you’re planning a big one, start either in Bananas or Café Face for raucous après ski and move on to late night venues Dick’s Tea Bar or Le Graal.
Val d’Isère Après Ski
If you’ve still got energy to burn after all that skiing and partying, why not try some of the more unconventional snowsports on offer, like husky sledding, snowmobiling, ice driving or ice climbing? Or take in the mountainscape from above either paragliding, from a microlight or a helicopter even. There are conventional sports on offer too, of course. There’s a swimming pool with a gym and a sports centre with a tremendous range of facilities, including basketball, volleyball and badminton courts, table tennis tables, trampolines and a climbing wall. If skiing has left you aching all over, you can always treat yourself to a massage and general pampering at a number of the swankier hotels in resort.
Something for the Kids
Children who are under 5 years old ski for free in Val and those older kids who have never skied before can enjoy the free use of the Village nursery slope, so you may not need to buy a lift pass for them for the first couple of days. There are a number of options for childcare. The Children’s Village offers a mixture of indoor and outdoor activities (ski tuition is optional) for kids aged 3-13 on a half-daily, daily or weekly basis. Le Petit Poucet will run your kids to and from ski school and look after them until the lifts close. For ultimate flexibility, try private nannying service Les Farfadets. In the evening exhaust them completely with a trip to the pool or the sports centre. And Thursday nights, when the Village becomes a car free zone, are dedicated to children’s entertainment.
Val d’Isère Accommodation Links
Other Snowjet.co.uk Resort Guides:
Chamonix Ski Resort Guide
Courchevel Ski Resort Guide
La Plagne Ski Resort Guide
Les Arcs
Ski Resort Guide
Meribel Ski Resort Guide
Sainte Foy Ski Resort Guide
Tignes Ski Resort Guide
Val Thorens Ski Resort Guide
